At Fiords’ End…and Back Again – 04 January 2008

Oh what a beautiful morning,
Oh what a beautiful day.
Hayley and I got to sleep in,
And she got to make her own eggs.
Oh what a beautiful day!

Can I say we love the Antler Lodge Bed & Breakfast? If I haven’t said it already, we love it here. A great bed for sleep, make your own hot breakfast, and best of all, they will watch over our rental car while we are on our Real Journeys overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound. With our bags packed in the car, except for an overnight bag, the breakfast dishes I washed drying in the rack, I handed over our room and car keys to our host Helen. Hayley and I then walked to the end of the driveway to await our bus for Doubtful Sound. While standing at the end of the drive with my backpack on I had flashbacks to when I was a kid waiting for the school bus, kicking rocks around to pass the time. It was great. At 1130am, right on the scheduled nose, the bus pulled around the corner.

Following our twenty minute ride down to Manapouri, not too far from where some of the “Dead Marshes” scenes were shot for LOTR, we exchanged our voucher for boarding cards and awaited our first boat to cross Lake Manapouri. While waiting we were graced with the sound of a teenage girl playing the bagpipes for any change people wished to throw her way. At first it was cool, then it became annoying, mainly because she could not hold a tune and she kept stopping and starting.
Putting an end to the bagpipes we boarded one of two boats that took us across Lake Manapouri, to where an hour boat ride later we arrived and boarded two motor coaches. In the comfort of our motor coach seats spent another hour traversing up one side and down another of the Wilmot Pass, stopping at one point for a photo opportunity high above Doubtful Sound. The road we traveled on Wilmot Pass is often referred to as the most expensive road in New Zealand. The twenty-two kilometer road was built back in the 1960s at a cost of two dollars per centimeter. The purpose of the road was to bring in building supplies and necessary equipment for an underwater power station set up where we first loaded onto the motor coaches.
Having completed the Wilmot Pass we boarded the Fiordland Navigator, our home nearly the next twenty hours. We assembled in the saloon (dining hall) and were given a safety briefing. One of the safety issues demonstrated was how to put on our life jackets in the event of an emergency. We were told that in the event we forget the demonstration “there are instructions on the life jacket itself and there are pictures for the Australians.” We were also introduced to the staff. For you Love Boat fans, our bartender was named Isaac, however he looked more like Doc. Our Julie and Gopher were Jayne and Ben. After depositing our overnight bag in our cabin our journey on Doubtful Sound was underway. Doubtful Sound, by the way, is actually not a sound, but rather a fiord. It was incorrectly named by the English when first discovered because the word fiord did not exist in the English language at the time, silly English people. Weather-wise, we made out like bandits. Typically, Doubtful Sound receives rain two out of every three days throughout the year. In store for us today was a beautifully blue sky, no clouds whatsoever. Making our way along the open decks, Hayley and I began to go crazy taking pictures and video, before stopping in the dining hall to find complimentary, fresh-baked muffins.
By mid-afternoon the Navigator came to a stop, lowered some small motor boats and took us out around the sound. This gave us an opportunity to get up close with nature along the shore line embankments and ask questions in smaller groups. For some, the motor boats were not enough fitness so they opted for the kayaking. Even still, that was not enough for some. Others decided to take a dip in the eleven degree temperature water. There many shocked and exhilarated faces. They really appeared to have enjoyed themselves. With everyone back on board we gathered in the dining room for some hot soup to warm up.
Making our way to the mouth of the Sound while Hayley and I were on the Observation Deck at the front of the ship, a big wave hit the bow and sent a giant spray of sea water up and over the railings. The mad scramble of people was evidence many got soaked. This included Hayley, me, and our cameras. For the second day in a row I was dashing for the bar, not for a drink, but for napkins to wipe the camera clean, the only thing worse than the fresh water of yesterday’s splash is today’s sea water splash. With the taste of sea salt still fresh in our mouths we cleaned our cameras and made our way back up top. Looking west to the Tasman Sea it appeared from our vantage point we were heading for the edge of the world and going to fall off, because as all of us explorers know, the world is flat. Upon greeting the Tasman Sea we spied some sea lions basking in the sun on some rocks.
When we turned back inland Hayley burst into song with “Heave, ho, all together. Hoist the colors high….” As she sang the three sails began to unfurl and catch the wind. With a few tacks back and forth along the waterway we located a sheltered arm of the Sound for us to dine. While making our way below deck the canvas was drawn in.
After dinner we made our way back out on deck to catch the last few glimpses of the sunset on the fiord peaks. While drifting toward our anchor point for the evening we came across a local fisherman. In response to my question if he had caught anything he reached into a yellow bucket and pulled out two very large crayfish, New Zealand rock lobsters. Moments later, the crayfish were on board our vessel, our crew traded some cheesecake for the crayfish. People gathered at the back of the ship to get a look and a photo of the crustaceans. Little did they know they were getting a honeymooner in their photos too. This was due to me, the Maine boy, not being afraid to stick my hand in and hold the spiny-shelled critter of the sea. One thing that made this crayfish different from a Maine lobster is it does not have the big front claws like those on the Maine lobster.
At nearly 10:30pm the last glimmer of light finally went away. Before Hayley and I would call it a night we made our way to the top deck of the Navigator, where there was minimal light, and we just sat there in peace gazing at the stars. Away from all the city lights it is amazing how many more stars you can see. I had the sudden urge to make the jump to light speed and have all those stars come whooshing towards us, but the Navigator’s technology was not that advanced. Oh well.
Retiring to our room to go to sleep I felt like I was stepping into the bedroom of Rob and Laura Petrie on The Dick Van Dyke Show. There were two single beds in the room, one on the left, one on the right. Now that I have caught up with the day it is time for sleep. The main engines will be playing reveille about 630am warning us of a half hour to breakfast.
Cheers,
Bob and Hayley
Food Facts:
· Ranch dressing does not exist here in New Zealand
· Ordering ketchup will get you tomato sauce
· Water is served up in a wine bottle-like jug and an empty glass
· The Road Kill Café serves up possum, not skunk here